Do collagen products protect skin, hair, and nails?

Collagen products are incredibly popular. Available in creams, capsules, gummies, drinks, and shots, collagen seems to be everywhere.

One of the most common claims is that getting extra collagen will keep your skin, hair, and nails youthful as you age.

But do collagen supplements work? In this feature, we’ll look at the research so far.

What’s collagen?

Collagen is a protein, which means that it’s built from chains of amino acids. One of its primary roles is to help your body maintain its structure.

It does this job in a wide range of places, including your skin, tendons, bones, and ligaments.

Your body makes new collagen throughout your life, but as you age, the production slows. And there’s an increase in enzymes that break down collagen.

This helps explain why your skin becomes less firm and more likely to wrinkle. 

So, on the face of it (pun intended), collagen supplements seem like a sensible idea. But do they work? Let's look at hair, nails, and skin in turn.

Does it work for hair?

Hair is primarily made from a protein called keratin. But collagen is a component of hair follicles, the tiny structures that grow your hair. 

According to advertising, collagen supplements can reduce hair loss, promote growth, slow graying, and provide other benefits.

However, there’s no good scientific evidence that this is true. So, if you’re considering collagen to improve your hair, you might be better off saving your money.

What about nails?

As with hair, there’s no good evidence that collagen supplements support healthy nails.

There's been little research, but one study from 2017 did investigate supplementary collagen’s effects on nails. In the introduction to their study paper, the authors explain why they conducted this research: 

From their own results, the scientists concluded that collagen supplements did improve nail growth and symptoms of brittle nails. 

However, they only had data from 25 participants. And they didn’t use a control group, so it’s impossible to know whether the supplements were responsible for the improvement or whether it stemmed from other factors — including chance.

Collagen skin creams

When you rub collagen onto your skin, the molecules are too large to get through the uppermost layer of skin — so, these creams don’t work.

This is perhaps why oral collagen supplements are now more popular. Let’s look at them.

Do oral collagen supplements work?

So far in this article, there’s not been much evidence to talk about. Here, it’s a little different.

In a recent ZOE Science & Nutrition podcast, we spoke with Consultant Dermatologist Dr. Justine Kluk. 

She explained that these oral supplements are broken down in your gut, and the amino acids travel to your skin, where they accumulate.

In theory, this triggers the production of collagen and elastin, which is another important component of skin.

For instance, a 2021 review and meta-analysis of studies into collagen supplements and skin concludes, “Ingestion of hydrolyzed collagen for 90 days is effective in reducing skin aging, as it reduces wrinkles and improves skin elasticity and hydration.”

However, Justine explains that not all studies have shown a benefit.

She also tells us that “A lot of the studies are sponsored by companies who make supplements, so they have an interest in presenting the data in a way that would show a favorable effect.”

Justine makes another important point: Even when studies have found that collagen supplements are effective, the benefits stop when you stop taking the supplements.

Overall, when it comes to these products, “The jury is still out.” So, what should you try instead?

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What’s the alternative?

While oral collagen supplements might make your skin more youthful, other ways to care for your skin have more scientific backing.

First, it’s important to protect your skin from the sun. This involves putting on sunscreen, wearing hats and long sleeves, and avoiding going out during the hottest part of the day.

Also, retinol — a form of vitamin A — can help slow skin aging and increase collagen production. However, it can also make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, and it can irritate some people’s skin.

Justine cautions that people who are pregnant or trying to get pregnant shouldn’t use retinol.

Although we have a lot to learn about how your gut microbiome interacts with your skin, Justine believes that a healthy diet can support your skin health.

So, in summary, there’s no evidence that collagen products support your hair or nail health. And collagen creams won’t look after your skin.

Oral collagen supplements may support healthy skin as you age, but the evidence isn’t super compelling.

Your best bet might be to protect yourself from the sun and eat more plants.